In the last year of the house, the old, stained and charred reinforced wooden countertops stared at me, and I decided it was time to upgrade. I saw a great mentor for concrete countertops. I spent months in my head. But I don\'t think I\'m ready for the challenge. - Besides, I\'m not sure I\'ve been ready for more than a week without a kitchen. . . I found fast and easy granite countertops on floors and decorative sockets. Fast and easy workbench is 18 \"x31\" and polished in all aspects. This eliminates the need to buy cownose pieces and build a wooden frame or hand polished and standard 12x12 \"tiles. In addition, fast and simple tiles are 1/2\"thick tiles. This granite is about 12 dollars per square foot. ft. The result is $25 per square metre. Ft. For finished products- Including waste（ I have several pieces of granite, and I want to try to inlay them in wood products. ) And a complete 18 \"x31\" component- In case I break a piece in anger. . . . It can be used in any ceramic tile, granite, marble, ceramics, glass. I just found what I think is the best choice. Your coat needs enough tile. Standard countertops are 25 inches deep, so every foot of countertops requires 2 square feet of tile. I suggest buying 20% more garbage, bad cutting, no- Match tiles, cracks or other defects. The last thing you want is to find that when you have your frankincense, you need an extra part to do it. (tile adhesive)ready to go. I have my own ceramic saw. I\'ve used it for other ceramic tile work, but it\'s the cheapest one. You can decorate stores from big boxes. I\'m not sure how it will handle thick granite. I rented a 10-inch ceramic saw. When I get there, I\'ll talk about the problems I encounter. . . So what about the list of materials? -Tile -20% extra-Mastic -tile adhesive- 1/4 \"Square concave plaster\"- 1/2 \"Marine Class or Pressure Treatment Layer\"（ I hear they are basically the same. . . )- 1/2 \"cardboard- Rigid fiberboard screw- Deck or outdoor screw-for the ply-Tile saw-Masking tape-Safety glasses-Plastic rolls - Countertop waterproof cloth-Grout- I used three portions of epoxy cement slurry. - In any case, this list is not exhaustive. I believe you need other parts, tools and supplies when you do this. Hope you have enough foresight to catch it before it\'s too late! ! Well, for those who do this in the new kitchen, skip it first. For others. . . . You have to make sure that everything is out of your direction. . . Take everything off the counter and take out the first drawers and the contents. This eventually becomes a mess, so if you\'re clumsy or a real cleaner- Cover your floor with rosin paper or anything around you. Remove flume- I don\'t want to know how to remove the sink. - There are many instructions everywhere about how to do this. - That\'s what I think. . . Get the stove out. Usually laminates are glued or spiral, or both. . . I\'m lucky that I just got screwed in. There are three or four screws at the top end of each section. Take those drawers away and let them go so that you can go in. There is a seam on the wall. - Take a Stanley\'s blade and cut it off. Lift up the workbench in your shop/garage/shed and reuse it! ! Now that the kitchen countertops are out, check the cabinets to determine the weight of the new countertops. - The granite tiles in my box can be handled. Near the sink, there are not enough \"brackets\" to support the weight. I installed a 2 \"x 2\" pine and fixed it with a small \"l\" bracket. This helps prevent the weight I store on the countertop from sagging when laying, rigid fiberboard, granite and all other rubbish are applied. . . When necessary, after checking and strengthening, measure and cut the time of plywood. Because the standard depth of the worktable is 25 inches and there is a front edge on the worktable, you need to cut the plywood at a depth of 24 inches. This is feasible for me, because my cardboard is 1/2\"and ceramic tile is also. Dry plywood and ensure that the front is aligned with the front of the cabinet. . . My cabinet is tailored for the kitchen, so I need to make some minor changes to scrape the side of the floor to make sure it fits even in front. Get your sink- Old or new and using templates（ Or use an old sink. Make your silhouette. Make sure there is adequate support around the sink. - Some sinks are very heavy, but the sinks filled with water and plates are very heavy. - You need to make sure you have enough support. - You don\'t want your sink to fall down when you finish. . . After the flume incision is completed, the deck fixing screw is used to fix the layer to the cabinet. - If the screw is not deep enough, you may need to drill it. Check the sink- If it doesn\'t fit, you may need to take out the drill jig and cut where necessary. Just make sure you are still in the center of the window/cabinet or anywhere in the sink. Check again to make sure you are level. Now it\'s on the back panel. I want to have a prominent part on the cardboard so that the tiles are on the whole board. - I don\'t want to bite my lips in front. So I cut the cement slab to a depth of 241/2. Dry the boards and place them under the sink. Use the incision on the plywood as a template to extract the parts that need to be cut from below. Again, make sure you\'re only one-second inch from the front. - Shave off if necessary. Dry the sink again. Get the cardboard screw- Yes, they\'re expensive. Yes, it\'s silly to buy only one box of screws for cardboard. They work well, they pull themselves down, so you don\'t have to bury your head any more. - I strongly recommend it. I cut cardboard with a carbide turning tool. I heard you can use some scissors. It doesn\'t produce much dust. . . I don\'t have anything like that. It produces a lot of dust. - Do it outside. Put on a mask. - I didn\'t have my first cut. I coughed in to get my respirator. - I strongly recommend it. . . Only you care. . . I could have flattened everything with a gasket before my hand. . . But what\'s interesting? . . After fixing the support plate and completing the day\'s work, the next day I realized that I hadn\'t checked the level near the dishwasher. . . The answer? Self- Flat concrete. It\'s like a charm. - In addition to the dishwasher, I had to \"build\" a duct tape for the front and seal the back with tape to make sure there was no concrete dripping from the back of the dishwasher. Mix the mixture together to give it water consistency. ( It soon dried up. . Spread it out and dry it. You can skip this step by placing gaskets under the curtain layer or between the curtain layer and the cement board. I rented a tile saw, but tried to calibrate it. （ To ensure that the protective device is cut straight) I realized it was impossible. Stretch the tiles as straight as possible, still keeping the tiles 1/4 inch apart from each 24 inches. . . Unacceptable. . . . This may not be obvious on 12 \"x12\" tiles, but it will not work on 31 \"tiles. . . So. . . I had to draw all the wounds by hand. I put down the tape, clamped the tiles, and slowly, very slowly, went through the saw. I cut 1. The front side is 5 \"strip, keep polishing. Then I cut 25 inches of debris, and the other piece was polished. Dry-pack all parts and adjust them where necessary. I didn\'t want a grouting line in the middle of the tank, so I used a 30-inch slab in the front, back and edge. Then put on frankincense and start tiling. The frankincense dries fairly fast, so be prepared to adjust, cut and prepare all your work. Stick the front strip and fix it in place with tape/paint tape. Dry the sink again! ! ! ! You don\'t want to dally in the future. I planned to make a back baffle out of slate very soon, so I didn\'t make a small back baffle out of granite. - I want slate up to the top. I used three copies of epoxy grouting. It should be a good job with a little elasticity, high pollution resistance and very thin grouting line. I butt all my granites together because there are slopes. I don\'t want to use a quarter of the cement slurry on the counter. With ordinary granite tiles without bevels, I will make a 1/16 \"grouting line\". The cement slurry is pressed into the tank and spread out with a cement slurry plaster. Pull the float at an angle of 45 degrees and push it back into the groove. You don\'t want cracks in the future, so make sure all the grooves are filled. Put a wet cloth on your hand and wipe away some stubborn debris. Use a wet sponge to remove the cement slurry residue from the tile, but make sure you don\'t erase the cement slurry from the lining. The cement slurry I use does not actually need to be sealed, but even if the granite is very hard, it is not many holes, it is a stone, it is still porous, can still be dyed, need to be sealed. I went to DuPont Stone Sealer. - Spray it on, sit it down and wipe it clean. Very simple. Give it a few days- Seventy-two hours before mass use or detergent. The next step is to enjoy the new stage. This can be achieved by not pointing out any defects. ( Although I know you will).