how to install a slate tile floor in 8 steps
This is a technology that can be used indoors, most often in the kitchen. Step 1: Un-
Since the slate is a natural stone, it is easy to be cut into slabs of different thickness.
Some slabs range from 5mm on one end of the tile to 15mm on the other.
This is not always the case, but the size/thickness of the tiles usually varies, however, it is not recommended to place a 5mm think slate tile next to the 15mm/20mm tile, because the steps generated between tiles are not only dangerous, but they are very unpleasant to walk and even look.
An effective way to organize the slabs is to arrange the slabs into thick, medium and thin 3 piles.
This will help with the installation of the tiles as you will not have any major differences in thickness, however, eliminating all the steps between the tiles is not always the case, because most customers want a small step here and there (
This is usually the effect you want when buying tiles such as natural slabs).
Step 2: Prepare the surface to be tiled most surfaces need to be sealed with primer;
This will increase the adhesion between the tile and the adhesive.
Since it is difficult to know which surfaces need to be sealed, it is recommended to seal any surfaces you may not be sure.
The primer recommended is an acrylic primer for Larsen.
Larsen\'s acrylic primer is a ready-to-use primer for use on porous and difficult substrates before tiles or leveling, or sealing plaster or leveling before adding cement adhesives.
When sealing the substrate or diluting it with the same amount of water for general triggering, it can be used very cleanly.
This can be applied using a roller and it is colored to ensure the same application. NOTE -
Make sure to remove any dust, oil, grease and dirt before starting/sealing any surface.
Step 3: planning and setting when planning and setting up tiles it is best practice to concentrate tiles into the room/area to be tiled.
This will minimize waste and look better in most cases.
To do this, do the following: measure one end of the room to the other and mark the floor half (
Divide the measurement in half).
Repeat this at the other end of the room.
Now use the long straight edge to connect two center marks to create the center line (
In some cases, some Center marks may also be needed in order to be able to reach each mark with straight edges).
Now, a tile line is laid per road from the center line to determine the best starting position.
If this leaves very small, difficult or in-
Then actually cut anywhere, repeat the process, but start in the middle of the tile instead of the edge of the tile.
Either way is not ideal in some cases, so you may need to start --
In order to ensure the best results, the center-round.
Step 4: mix adhesive and paste tile once the best starting position is determined you will need to mix some tile adhesive for this we recommend Larsen\'s professional quick set PTB.
The fast set PTB is especially suitable for solid bed fixing between 5 and 20mm and is easy to deal with uneven tiles and substrates.
Fast Set PTB is available in both gray and white colors and is suitable for fixing ceramics, full-glazed bricks, natural stone and mosaics to a wide range of substrates including heated ironing boards. NOTE -
This is a fast-setting adhesive, so it is recommended to mix a small amount at a time.
When tiling in the kitchen, corridors, etc.
It is recommended to start at the farthest place from the door and work backwards towards the door to make sure you do not lock yourself in the corner as you will not be able to stand on the newly laid floor tiles.
Start applying the tile adhesive to the floor using a solid bed spatula;
This is available from most builders.
Holding the tro knife at 45?
Angle when applying adhesive.
When laying the tiles, remember to separate them from each other at least 5mm, which is used for grouting.
Not all tiles have 5mm grout lines, but this is the recommended size for most floor tiles, but given the slight changes in these sizes, since natural slabs are not always completely square.
Step 5: cut the tiles once you have laid a line of tiles, you need to cut the tiles to fit the walls/units etc.
To do this, you need to measure the installation area of the tile (
Remember to take into account the grouting space between the tile and the Wall)
Use a tape measure and then transfer the measurement to the tile using a pencil/marker.
With regard to the actual cutting of tiles, some people would say that this is the best way to dry, which means using an electric cutting machine without water. NOTE -
Not all knives have the ability to cut and dry, so this is not always possible.
If wet (with water)
Then, make sure the slate is completely dry before sealing.
When cutting natural stone, it is recommended to use overhead cutters like the rubi dw series, but for those who do not work full time, this can be very expensive, smaller and cheaper alternatives are available from most builders. NOTE -
For cutting instructions, please refer to the operating manual that comes with the tool.
Step 6: seal the waves once the adhesive is cured (set hard)
It is very important to use the sealer/protector.
To this end, we recommend the dipping sealant of Larsen, which is ideal for providing a waterproof, stain-resistant seal for Slate and porous tiles.
This will be applied using a roller and must be applied evenly.
It is recommended to apply the coating twice before and after grouting.
Step 7: once the grout is cured by the sealer, it is time to mix the grout.
To this end, we recommend Larsen\'s professional stain-resistant wide seam grouting.
Professional stain-resistant wide seam grouting material is a kind of special prepared, flexible and cement-based wide seam grouting material.
This will use the grouting float to disperse it into the gap at a 45 degree angle
Try to focus on keeping the grout as close as possible to the edge of the tile, which doesn\'t matter as you have sealed the tile, but will make it easier for the sponge to fall off afterwards.
When grouting, you should cover only 1-
2 m² at a time and then sponge off as if the mud was left on the tile for too long, it was hard to remove! (Between 10-
15 minutes is ideal. .
Once all grouting is applied, you may need to clean the tiles again with a grouting sponge, but make sure every 2-3 m2.
The grouting has been cured once the tiles are clean (set hard)
Another sealing coating is also required: daily maintenance.
The floor needs to be re-laid according to walking traffic
Seal/clean with professional tile cleaner every 6 hours
For 12 months, we recommend concentrated tile cleaning for Larsen.
Tile cleaning is part of the scope of professional tile maintenance.